{"id":1120,"date":"2016-07-09T16:48:19","date_gmt":"2016-07-09T20:48:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/freemansgarage.com\/blog\/?p=1120"},"modified":"2020-11-07T08:22:41","modified_gmt":"2020-11-07T13:22:41","slug":"jeep-cj7-v8-swap","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/2016\/07\/09\/jeep-cj7-v8-swap\/","title":{"rendered":"Jeep CJ7 V8 Swap"},"content":{"rendered":"

My Jeep is a 1986 CJ7.\u00a0 It originally had a AMC 258 6-Cyl with a T4 transmission and I\u00a0 installed a rebuilt 1973 AMC 304 V8 into it.\u00a0\u00a0 The swap is pretty easy and did not require any special fabricated parts or expensive adapters.\u00a0 The AMC V8’s are all the same external size and bolt pattern so this install applies to the common AMC 360 as well.\u00a0\u00a0 I’ll list all the “issues” I ran into and explain how I got around them.
\nI rebuilt the 304 myself and I will not go into much detail on the rebuild itself.\u00a0 I’ll show some pictures of the engine but the rebuild is for another write up some day.
\nMy old engine was the common 258 6-Cyl shown below:
\n\"IMG_0018\"<\/a><\/p>\n

The 258 engine ran well and did not smoke.\u00a0 HP was pretty bad and I had trouble accelerating up steep hills with the crappy 2.73 axle ratio.\u00a0 I often had to down shift and had the gas pedal to the floor. \u00a0\u00a0 It was probably time for a rebuild or new engine.
\nI searched Craigslist and found a running AMC 304 for $200.\u00a0\u00a0 I took the guys word for it and bought it since I was going to strip it down anyways.\u00a0 It ended up being a good block and I did not have to spend any serious money for new heads or anything like that.\u00a0\u00a0 This is very important:\u00a0 Make sure to buy a COMPLETE engine with the alternator and power steering brackets.\u00a0 Also get the V8 motor mounts.\u00a0\u00a0 If you don’t, you will be searching junk yards to find all this stuff which is a pain and cost money.\u00a0 I picked a nice torque cam (Comp CAM XE256H) and bought the matching spring and lifter kit.\u00a0\u00a0 I did the usual rebuild with new oil pump parts, new rings, bearings, bored cylinders, AMC Performer 4 barrel intake with Holley 600CFM carb.\u00a0\u00a0 I also upgraded the ignition to modern GM style HEI.\u00a0\u00a0 This is a “must” have for sure.\u00a0 It greatly simplifies the Jeep wiring and provides much better spark to the cylinders.\u00a0 This was the best single upgrade I did to the engine in my opinion.\u00a0\u00a0 Lots of guys install the AMC 360 and that’s fine.\u00a0 I personally like the 304 and did not want to upgrade the drive train to handle the HP that the 360 has.\u00a0\u00a0 I was looking for a little more power and the classic V8 sound.\u00a0 The 304 delivered both for me.<\/p>\n

Rebuilt 304 V8 shown below:\u00a0 (don’t use the 4 blade fan it sucks bad).\u00a0 I swapped it for a 7 blade with clutch later on.\u00a0 I used real AMC blue paint which is Seymore EN-66 Hi-Tech<\/strong> engine metallic.\u00a0 It looks great and is sold on Amazon for about $11 a can.
\n\"IMG_1297\"<\/a>
\nThe first step is to remove the old 258 6-Cyl.\u00a0\u00a0 I used a 2 Ton engine lift which made easy work of it.\u00a0\u00a0 I unbolted the engine from the T4 transmission and left the T4 in the Jeep.\u00a0 I did unbolt the drive shafts and slid the transmission back away from the engine about 6 inches.\u00a0\u00a0 Disconnect all the wires & hoses.\u00a0 I labeled all wires with masking tape ( tachometer, 12v, thermostat,\u00a0 oil pressure, etc)\u00a0 this made it easier for the install later. \u00a0\u00a0 Unbolt the exhaust pipe and completely remove the exhaust system from the jeep.\u00a0 This will not be used again. \u00a0\u00a0 I removed the power steering pump and just moved it aside.\u00a0 This will be reused later. I left the alternator on the engine and just unplugged it.\u00a0 Unbolt fuel lines and anything else connected to the engine.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
\nUnbolt engine from frame and transmission and pull out with hoist.
\n\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Below is the removed 258.\u00a0 Its sitting on some blocks of with with wheels so I can move it around.\u00a0 I sold it on Craigslist for $350 to recoup some $$$ from the swap.
\n\"IMG_1873\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Installed V8 shown below:
\n\"IMG_1864\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Issues I had to deal with<\/span>:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. \u00a0Engine motor mounts.\u00a0 The old 258 mounts will not bolt up to the V8.\u00a0 I had to use the V8 mounts from the original vehicle.<\/li>\n
  2. The fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump is on the wrong side of the V8 engine.\u00a0\u00a0 The fuel return line is okay.\u00a0\u00a0 I ran some steel line under the radiator over to the other side to the pump.\u00a0 There is plenty of room.<\/li>\n
  3. Radiator:\u00a0 I had to buy the V8 hoses.\u00a0 The stock 6-cyl radiator in my Jeep was a 3 core and is PLENTY for the new V8.\u00a0\u00a0 I just used the old radiator.<\/li>\n
  4. Power Steering:\u00a0 I removed the mount brackets from my old power steering pump and used the V8 brackets.\u00a0 I had to remove the belt pulley which was a pain to get off.\u00a0 I had to buy a special puller for $20.\u00a0 Once that was done it was an easy bolt on.<\/li>\n
  5. Alternator:\u00a0 non issue.\u00a0 I used the old one that came with the V8.\u00a0 Same electrical plugs as the 258 6-cyl alternator.<\/li>\n
  6. Fan:\u00a0 DO NOT USE the 4 blade fan. \u00a0 Throw that piece in the garbage. \u00a0 Buy the original used 7 blade jeep clutch fan off ebay .\u00a0 They are the best and move an insane amount of air.\u00a0 You must use a clutch with this huge fan or you will have an irritating loud noise from it.\u00a0 Your gas mileage will also suck without the clutch.\u00a0\u00a0 I bought a brand new fan clutch from NAPA #272310 <\/b>for $35.\u00a0\u00a0 <\/b>I have about 1.5″ if clearance from the radiator (see photo below).\u00a0 I am not using a fan shroud and the engine has no problem staying cool.<\/li>\n
  7. Wiring:\u00a0 If you use the old Motocraft ignition on the V8, your old ignition module and wiring will hook right up.\u00a0 The old module is the same for the 6Cyl and the V8.\u00a0\u00a0 I converted to HEI distributor and only need 3 wires to the distributor.\u00a0 12v, ground, and the tach feed.\u00a0 I ripped the old module out along with all that crazy wiring.\u00a0 Its pretty clean looking now.\u00a0 3 wires to the engine ignition plus water temp and oil pressure wire.<\/li>\n
  8. Gages:\u00a0\u00a0 Everything worked.\u00a0 Temp sensor, oil pressure, voltage all worked using the V8 sensors.\u00a0 The tachometer also worked perfect with the HEI distributor.\u00a0 I have no idea if the tach will read correctly with the original V8 ignition.<\/li>\n
  9. Transmission:\u00a0 I used the original T4.\u00a0 It bolted right up but it shifted 1 inch closer to the front of the jeep.\u00a0 This caused my front drive shaft to be too long and my rear drive shaft to be too short.\u00a0 The T4 is pretty wimpy transmission and lots of guys upgrade to something else.\u00a0 I did not want to spend the money right now so I left it in there. As long as you don’t roast the tires all the time the T4 will hold up fine.\u00a0 I have been using mine for a year with no issues.\u00a0 If it dies, I’ll just replace it with something else.<\/li>\n
  10. Drive shafts:\u00a0 Front drive shaft is too long and rear drive shaft is too short.\u00a0 I altered them both to fit with more instructions later in this write-up.\u00a0\u00a0 Option 2 is to buy new custom length ones which are expensive.<\/li>\n
  11. Axles:\u00a0 No change.\u00a0 I kept the front Dana 30 and rear AMC Model 20.\u00a0\u00a0 I did upgrade to 1 piece axles in the Model 20 a long time ago.\u00a0 Ratio is 2.73 (I think) .<\/li>\n
  12. Exhaust:\u00a0 No headers.\u00a0 I used original OEM V8 manifolds as headers will not offer my 304 any benefit for the way I built it.\u00a0 Stock manifolds are heavy duty, wont leak, and flow excellent.\u00a0\u00a0 The passenger manifold is a common rear dump style and the drivers side has to be the center dump style in order to make room for the clutch linkage.\u00a0\u00a0 I took the jeep to a local exhaust shop and had them bend me up a custom dual exhaust with Flowmaster 40’s.\u00a0 They did a great job tucking the pipes up out of the way and away from the gas lines.<\/li>\n
  13. Clutch:\u00a0 Now is a good time to buy a new clutch and throw out bearing.\u00a0 I bought a OEM clutch kit for a T4 and 258 6-Cylinder from NAPA.\u00a0 You must use a pilot bearing for the T4 and 258 Engine.\u00a0 The T4 has a different spline and pilot bushing than the old V8’s with the 3 speed transmission.\u00a0 The brass pilot bushing will press right in perfect to the V8.\u00a0 The clutch is a 10.125″ and is fine.\u00a0\u00a0 Buy a good quality throw out bearing that matches the clutch.\u00a0 The diaphragm type clutch which is what I used has a taller throw out bearing than the release lever type.<\/li>\n
  14. Fly Wheel:\u00a0 The AMC V8’s are externally balanced.\u00a0 You must use the V8 balance wheel and do not use the 6-cyl one.\u00a0 No issues here because my V8 came with the flywheel.<\/li>\n
  15. Gas pedal cable.\u00a0 The original 6 cyl will not fit (its too long).\u00a0 I bought the short OEM one for the V8 from NAPA.\u00a0 Its around 17″.\u00a0 There is a special engine bracket for it on the V8 which you must have.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Below shows the clutch fan clearance from the radiator.\u00a0 Its about 1.5″ which is about right.\u00a0 I used the upgraded 7 blade fan and the stock 3 core radiator for\u00a0 V8 cooling.\u00a0 The stupid 4 blade fan just does not cut it.\u00a0 The stock radiator is fine however so there is no need to buy a new one.
    \n    \"IMG_2130\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    The GM style\u00a0 HEI distributor is huge compared the the old one.\u00a0 This is not required but was an upgrade I wanted to do.\u00a0 You can use the old motorcraft distributor and module if you want but it is really old technology and has its share of issues.\u00a0 I personally don’t like the old motorcraft setup.\u00a0 The modules burn out all the time and the spark is just not that great.\u00a0 The HEI setup with vacuum advance is fool proof and is plug and play for the most part.\u00a0 Only 3 wires needed, (12v, ground, tachometer). \u00a0 I had to position it like this to miss the fan belts. (shown below).\u00a0\u00a0 I also plugged the small coolant hose that runs to the intake.\u00a0 I would have used it but I could not get the rear inlet plug out of the intake manifold.\u00a0 It was seized in there forever.\u00a0 This is only for preheating the manifold for emissions purposes anyways.\u00a0 It has no negative affect on the engine once it reaches operating temp anyways.
    \n    \"IMG_2131\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    You must use the V8 motor mounts (shown below).\u00a0 They will bolt in the exact same spot as the 6-Cylinder mounts.\u00a0 The V8 will lower in easily and align right up no problem.
    \n    \"IMG_2118\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    Throttle cable and bracket shown below.\u00a0 I had to use the short cable.\u00a0 Seems the auto parts dealer sells a long and short version.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Later I went to TSC and bought a stronger return spring for the carb.\u00a0 I was having trouble with a “high” idle when sitting at a stop light.\u00a0 It was from the weak spring so I replaced it with a new stronger one.\u00a0 Problem solved.
    \n    \"IMG_2135\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    Drive Shafts:<\/span>
    \nOkay I had some trouble with the drive shafts not fitting.\u00a0 The transmission shifted 1 inch forward which caused my drive shafts to bottom out (which is bad for them).
    \nThe rear drive shaft had to be lengthened.\u00a0 I ended up cutting it in half and making a “sleeve” on my lathe that pressed into it.\u00a0 1st thing to do is cut it in half shown below.
    \n    \"IMG_1784\"<\/a>
    \nI made a “sleeve” that will press inside the drive shaft.
    \n    \"IMG_1788\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    I pressed the sleeve into the shaft shown below.\u00a0 Then I welded both seems all the way around the shaft.\u00a0\u00a0 The shaft has to be perfectly straight so I tack welded it first and measured the drive shaft run out with an indicator.\u00a0 I got it within 0.003 inch which is good enough for me.
    \n    \"IMG_1790\"<\/a>
    \n    \"IMG_1791\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    The front drive shaft was easy.\u00a0 I just cut a 1 inch chunk out of it and welded it back together.\u00a0 I clamped it to some heavy duty angle iron to keep it straight.\u00a0 No problem. (see below).
    \n    \"IMG_1779\"<\/a>
    \n    \"IMG_1780\"<\/a>
    \n    \"IMG_1781\"<\/a>
    \n    \"IMG_1782\"<\/a><\/p>\n

    That’s about it.\u00a0 The V8 install was the easy part.\u00a0 The drive shaft part was a nuisance but not difficult.
    \nPerformance is great!\u00a0\u00a0 The power increase with the 304 is amazing.\u00a0 I can squeal all 4 tires in 4wheel drive on the pavement and it will throw you back in your seat with a smile. .\u00a0 lol.\u00a0 The sound is classic V8.
    \nGas mileage is around 12MPG if I baby it.\u00a0 If I put my foot into it I will get 8-9MPG.\u00a0 The entire project took me around 2 months.\u00a0\u00a0 I worked on it almost every day after work for a few hours and longer hours on the weekends. \u00a0 It was quite the experience and I learned a lot.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The next V8 swap I do might be something more complicated like a GM engine.
    \nVideos of my Jeep running below:<\/p>\n