{"id":813,"date":"2015-01-31T19:31:43","date_gmt":"2015-02-01T00:31:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/freemansgarage.com\/blog\/?p=813"},"modified":"2020-11-07T08:24:43","modified_gmt":"2020-11-07T13:24:43","slug":"geothermal-self-install","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/2015\/01\/31\/geothermal-self-install\/","title":{"rendered":"Geothermal Self Install"},"content":{"rendered":"

Geothermal heating is a pretty cool technology.\u00a0\u00a0 It saves a lot of money in heating and is much more efficient than fuel oil or propane.\u00a0\u00a0 There are many web sites explaining the technology so I will not spend too much time with that.\u00a0 Basically a geothermal heat pump is a large refrigerator that moves heat from one spot (the ground) and puts it into your house.\u00a0 In cooling mode, it takes heat out of the house and puts in into the ground.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Its very simple and the technology is not new.\u00a0 Heat pumps just move heat around and do not create\u00a0heat like a gas furnace does so they are pretty efficient (around 400% or so).\u00a0\u00a0 A typical gas furnace is 95% and a fuel oil furnace is around 85% or so.\u00a0 Heat pumps look exactly like a normal furnace except they have some plumbing connected to it.\u00a0\u00a0 I basically pulled my old fuel oil furnace out and the heat pump just slid right in the same spot.\u00a0 I used the same duct work minus a small adapter I made.\u00a0 My heat pump is a open loop system.\u00a0 Open loops will pump water out of a well and then you dump the water back into another well or run it to the ditch like I did.\u00a0 My county did not like the idea of me pumping water back into a deep well and really preferred that I run it to the ditch.\u00a0 It did not matter to me either way as the water just ends up in the great lakes in the end anyways.
\nI get asked if its legal to install your own HVAC system.\u00a0\u00a0 This depends on where you live so calling your county inspector will quickly answer that.\u00a0 I live in Michigan and as long as the install passes inspection, they do not care who installs it.\u00a0 -Great!\u00a0\u00a0 The only downside is it could void the warranty on your heat pump if its not installed professionally.\u00a0 Not all brands are like this so just read up on them.
\nI did a geothermal self install in my own home over a span of a 2 months in 2011.\u00a0 I worked on it during the weekends in late summer while I worked my day job during the week.\u00a0 I will warn you this was a huge project and I spent a month reading up on HVAC rules and electrical code before I decided to dive into this project.\u00a0 Basic skills needed that I will not spend too much time to explain are plumbing and home electrical. \u00a0\u00a0 I’ll explain in detail everything else I did\u00a0 to install and pass state inspection.\u00a0 Calculating the savings was also a big deal.\u00a0 I knew what I spent each winter with my existing fuel oil furnace and I ran the numbers on a bunch of theoretical calculations on what the geothermal bills would be. \u00a0 I wanted to know if the geothermal would be worth it and it scared me to death not knowing\u00a0if this thing would really work.
\nI had a few big problems to deal with before I bought any equipment so I’ll break the write up into two parts.
\nProblem #1<\/span>:\u00a0\u00a0 I only had 100Amp service in my 1969 house.\u00a0\u00a0 My inspector\u00a0 could not believe what I was running with my existing setup (full electric house with large pole barn\u00a0 lol…) and he said I had to upgrade my electrical service for the added geothermal.\u00a0\u00a0 I called Detroit Edison and told them what I was doing.\u00a0 They sent out a planning engineer to take a look at my house.\u00a0 She left me a detailed list of what I needed and how much it would cost to upgrade since my existing electrical service was inadequate for geothermal. \u00a0 \u00a0 The killer on the electrical service with geothermal is the emergency backup heat.\u00a0 Michigan requires a 2nd form of backup heat for a geothermal install which for me was a huge 9000 Watt (50 amp) electric heater built into the heat pump.\u00a0 My old 100 Amp service was not going to cut it so I\u00a0 upgraded to 400 Amp service (dual 200 Amp meters) which is the maximum residential electrical hookup in my area.\u00a0 One 200 amp meter for the house and pole barn and the other 200 amp meter for the geothermal special half rate.\u00a0 Its way overkill but I don’t want to do this again.
\nFirst I had to buy two permits for this project.\u00a0 Yeah they got me on two!\u00a0 One electrical permit\u00a0 for $100 and a mechanical permit for $125.\u00a0\u00a0 Each one of these comes with its own inspection and final approval.\u00a0\u00a0 I am not one to normally get permits but I felt I probably should follow the rules this time since I am spending $1000’s of dollars on this project. \u00a0\u00a0 My inspectors actually were very helpful and gave me sound advice when I asked for it.\u00a0 They knew I was not a professional so they really looked around at my install.\u00a0 In the end they both told me it was a good clean install.\u00a0 -Cool!
\nDetroit Edison ended up installing a new utility pole with transformer and I had to install a new dual meter box on the house.\u00a0 I paid $500 for them to run my power underground.\u00a0 It was well worth it to get rid of the overhead power lines.\u00a0 Installation was easy as the box just bolts to the house and I had to run conduit down the side of the house and inside.\u00a0\u00a0 Drilling the hole though the house was interesting as I had to use a large hole saw.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2713\"<\/a>
\nAbove shows the new power meters.\u00a0 Once inspection is passed, Edison will come out and install the glass meters.\u00a0 The one on the right is for the house, and the left one is for hot water and the heat pump.\u00a0 The meter box alone was $300.
\n\"IMG_2714\"<\/a>
\nThe new pole and transformer are shown above with the underground cable running down the pole.\u00a0 Pretty normal looking.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2725\"<\/a>
\nInside I mounted a brand new breaker box and ran the outside conduit to the new box (see above).
\nI installed the new breaker box right next to my existing house box.\u00a0\u00a0 It’s much larger but its pretty empty inside.\u00a0 The large box was the same cost as a small one so I just got the bigger one.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2721\"<\/a>
\n\"IMG_2722\"<\/a>
\nDetroit Edison lets me run the Water Heater, Heat Pump, Well Pump, Aux plug (runs the humidifier), and the Emergency Heat all the the cheap 1\/2 rate.\u00a0\u00a0 Pretty nice!\u00a0 The well pump is only allowed if you use the well for the water source then its considered part of the heat pump system.\u00a0\u00a0 A closed loop system will not be allowed to put the well pump on the cheap rate.<\/p>\n

Problem #2<\/span>:\u00a0 I had no idea what size of a heat pump to buy.\u00a0\u00a0 To small = cold house in winter, and too big = high cycle time and poor cooling in summer.\u00a0 I had to make sure I was buying the proper sized heat pump.\u00a0\u00a0 I did a bunch of calculations on the BTU loss for the house called “Manual J” and I looked at the past 2 years of heating bills.\u00a0 Its not too hard to estimate what you need to heat and cool your house.
\nI downloaded a program from University of California called “HEED”
\nhttp:\/\/www.energy-design-tools.aud.ucla.edu\/<\/a>
\nIts a pretty clunky piece of software but it actually works pretty well and best of all is free.\u00a0\u00a0 The first thing I did was downloaded the weather info for Saginaw, Michigan which is easily done inside the program.\u00a0\u00a0 It will use the weather history for the area to help calculate heat loss on your house.
\n\"2014-12-29<\/a>
\nOnce the weather info is installed, you need to spend some good time measuring your house.\u00a0 HEED will ask you to sketch up your home with windows, doors, roof, wall insulation, ceiling insulation, etc.\u00a0\u00a0 This is SUPER important to enter the data correctly.\u00a0 I went into my attic to measure insulation, measured all my windows, measured wall thickness,\u00a0 looked for drafts, ect.\u00a0\u00a0 I spent a whole Saturday gathering all the data for my house.
\n\"3d<\/a>
\nThis is my house drawn in HEED.\u00a0 Its important to even add the trees, garage, overhangs and all.\u00a0\u00a0 Looks pretty nice!<\/p>\n

\"Manual<\/a>
\nPress the results button and look at the HVAC System Sizing<\/strong>.\u00a0\u00a0 It will calculate the COLDEST day which is -37,721 BTU\/hr loss for my house.\u00a0 That is for a 77.4 degree difference (70 inside and -7.4 outside) .\u00a0\u00a0 Cooling ended up being 17,278 BTU\/Hr gained.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 I was not sure about the results so I also did some sanity checks based on my past usage of fuel oil.\u00a0\u00a0 I know how much oil I burn a year and how many BTU’s each gallon of Fuel oil will make with a 85% efficient furnace.\u00a0 It worked out pretty close and I got -20,000 BTU\/hr average based on my past bills.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 So far the number makes sense as -37,721 is a abnormally cold day which is only a few days a year.\u00a0 The rest of the days are much warmer at 20 degrees.\u00a0 I want a heat pump that can cover me when its -7 degrees outside.
\nI ended up buying a Bard GV38 which is a 38,500 BTU\/hr 2 stage heat pump.\u00a0\u00a0 Stage one is 25,800 BTU\/hr heating and stage two is 37,000 BTU\/hr heating.\u00a0\u00a0 The emergency heat (Stage 3) is an additional 30,000 BTU\/hr if I need it.\u00a0 Cooling is 41,000 and 29,400 BTU\/hr which is way more than I need.
\nInstalling the heat pump was not much different that a normal furnace.\u00a0 The added steps include some plumbing which is pretty easy.\u00a0 My heat pump was almost the same size as my fuel oil furnace which made things very easy for me.
\nThe first thing I did was rent a trencher for a day and I buried a tile from my house to the ditch.\u00a0 This is where the waste water will dump to.<\/p>\n

\"OLYMPUS<\/a>
\n\"OLYMPUS<\/a>
\n\"OLYMPUS<\/a>
\nThe tile has to have a constant downward fall so the water flows out and does not sit in the pipe.\u00a0 Water sitting in the pipe will freeze in the winter and cause all sorts of problems.\u00a0 I used a laser level to make sure I had plenty of fall.\u00a0 The trencher was fun to use and made quick work of my project.\u00a0 It cut through roots and pulled up rocks easily.
\n\"Fleck<\/a>
\nThe heat pump needs water.\u00a0 I tapped into my water supply right at the well entrance point.\u00a0 Its connected before the water softener because there is no need to run soft water through the heat pump.
\n\"IMG_2717\"<\/a>
\nPressure regulator show above.
\n\"IMG_2729\"<\/a>
\nAnother item I added to the water supply pipe is a pressure regulator to drop the pressure from the house hold 60psi down to around 22 psi. \u00a0 The lowered pressure completely eliminated the annoying water hiss which was really loud and I could hear it all through the house when the heat pump was running. \u00a0 The heat pump can run on pressure all the way down to 15 PSI.
\n\"IMG_2728\"<\/a>
\nThe installation manual clearly shows a diagram on how to install the plumbing.\u00a0\u00a0 Water comes in from your water supply and connects right to the heat pump.\u00a0 Water exits the heat pump and will get throttled down by a 6 gallon per minute flow valve.\u00a0\u00a0 That way your water will not run full blast when your heat pump turns on.\u00a0 Smaller heat pumps only need 4 gallon a minute flow valves.\u00a0\u00a0 The electric valve (orange thing) is opened and closed by the heat pump.\u00a0 When the heat pump calls for heating or cooling, the valve opens allowing water to flow through the system.\u00a0\u00a0 That’s it pretty simple.
\n\"IMG_2720\"<\/a>
\nThe exit water is plumbed outside to my buried tile.\u00a0\u00a0 I drilled a hole in me basement wall and ran it to the underground tile.\u00a0\u00a0 I did not want any water sitting in the pipe for fear of freezing outside so I installed a tee’d off pipe with a vent.\u00a0 This is called a vacuum break and will let the water flow out of the pipe quickly as long as the pipe has downward slope (remember the tile had to have the downward slope as well).\u00a0 It simply lets air into the pipe (to break the vacuum) and the water will flow out on its own very quickly.\u00a0 The idea is simple: No sitting water = no frozen water.\u00a0 Water does not come out of the vent hole because the pressure is so low that it just flows out the normal exit in the tile instead.\u00a0 It works great – 4 years now and zero frozen pipes.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2715\"<\/a>
\nThe electrical connection was more of a challenge but not too bad.\u00a0 I am pretty familiar with house wiring already so this was not much different than wiring up a hot water heater or any other 220 Volt appliance.
\nThere are two different electrical connections to the heat pump.\u00a0 The first one is 220 Volt at 30 AMP to power the actual heat pump.\u00a0 The heat pump actually only draws 6 amps on stage 1 and 10 amps on stage 2.\u00a0 I guess they want 30 amps for surge. \u00a0\u00a0 The 2nd connection is 220 Volt @ 50 AMP for the emergency heat.\u00a0\u00a0 This is nothing more than a huge electric space heater and will provide full heat to the house if the heat pump actually fails.\u00a0\u00a0 Its nice to have but I have never had to use it.\u00a0 Michigan says I have to have it.
\n\"IMG_2736\"<\/a>
\nI used 8 gauge solid copper wire for the 50 AMP connection and\u00a0 10 gauge copper for the 30 amp connection.\u00a0 I have a small 15 amp outlet on the heat pump to power the humidifier which used 14 gauge wire.\u00a0\u00a0 I believe the well pump is on a 20 amp breaker and the water heater is also on a 30 amp breaker.
\n\"IMG_2737\"<\/a>
\nI moved my well pump and my water heater to the new box as well.\u00a0 You can see the huge 4\/0 aluminum feed wire to the 150 AMP main breaker.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 I also replace the feed wire to my old box.\u00a0 It also is fed with 4\/0 aluminum wire.\u00a0\u00a0 Both boxes now can support 200 amp service each if I ever want to replace the main breakers.
\nI believe they fed my house with 750 kcmil solid copper from the pole.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Crazy stuff as I remember the Detroit Edison guys complaining about it when they connected it up.\u00a0\u00a0 Needless to say I never have any lights dimming when things turn on.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2734\"<\/a>
\nI ran all the wire in the basement ceiling and then dropped it down to the heat pump (see above and below).\u00a0 Any drops have to be encased in steel or plastic conduit from a junction box.
\n\"OLYMPUS<\/a>
\nThermostat wire is shown in the above picture zip tied to the power conduit.\u00a0 I needed 9 conductor wire so I ran one 7 conductor and one 3 conductor wire (one unused wire just in case).
\n\"OLYMPUS<\/a>
\nThe manual describes how to hook up the thermostat wire to the main control board inside the heat pump (shown above).\u00a0 No programming needed just hook it up and go.
\n\"IMG_2746\"<\/a>
\nThe thermostat is powered by the heat pump so no batteries needed.\u00a0 Nice feature for me.\u00a0\u00a0 This thermostat supports 3 stage heat pump.\u00a0 Any thermostat will work as long as it supports multi stage heat pumps.<\/p>\n

Listed below are the specs for my house and my GV38 Heat pump.\u00a0 Based on 4 yrs of service.
\nStage One Heat<\/span> = 25,800 BTU\/hr\u00a0\u00a0 (6.7 amps)\u00a0\u00a0 ( Good down to 15\u00b0F outside while 71\u00b0F inside.)
\nStage Two Heat<\/span> = 37,000 BTU\/hr (10.1 amps)\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 (Good for below 15\u00b0F outside while 71\u00b0F inside.\u00a0\u00a0 Tested to -7\u00b0F so far with no wind)
\nStage Three Heat<\/span> = 37,000 BTU\/hr (10.1 amps) + 30,000 BTU\/hr E-Heat (35 Amps) for a total of 67,000 BTU\/hr.\u00a0\u00a0 Never used.\u00a0 I have only tested it in test mode and it heats like crazy.
\nStage One Cooling<\/span> = -29,400 BTU\/hr (6.7 Amps)\u00a0 (so far will cool the house to 74\u00b0F while 99\u00b0F outside with no problems. I use this mode 100% of the time so far)
\nStage Two Cooling<\/span>= -41,000 BTU\/hr (10.1 Amps)\u00a0 Never needed it yet.\u00a0 I imagine I could turn my house into a walk in freezer if I wanted to.
\nThis thermostat supports temperature differentials.\u00a0\u00a0 Differentials are a nice feature to adjust your comfort and power usage.\u00a0 Mine are set like this to minimize power consumption:
\nStage 1 differential =1\u00b0
\nStage 2 differential=2\u00b0
\nStage 3 differential=1\u00b0
\nDifferentials work like this:\u00a0 My thermostat is set to 71\u00b0.\u00a0\u00a0 When the thermostat drops to 70\u00b0 it will call for heat with stage one.\u00a0 When the thermostat falls to 69\u00b0 it will call for Stage 2 heat.\u00a0 Thermostat falls to 68\u00b0 it will still stay at stage 2 because the differential is set to 2\u00b0.\u00a0 When the thermostat falls to 67\u00b0 Stage 3 is called for which will get the temp up quickly with the help of aux heat strips.\u00a0\u00a0 I never want to use Aux heat because its expensive so on really cold days when its -7\u00b0 to 2\u00b0 outside it will stay in stage 2 all day and maintain 68\u00b0-69\u00b0.\u00a0 That seems to be the balance point for stage 2 but it only gets cold like that a few weeks a year.\u00a0\u00a0 There is a setting called “Smart Staging” which will activate a timer for stage 3 aux heat.\u00a0 It works like this:\u00a0 setting the “Smart Staging” to 60 minutes will force the heat pump into stage 3 after 60 minutes if stage 1 or stage 2 cannot heat the house up to the thermostat set point. \u00a0\u00a0 This is nice if you really want your house to stay at 71\u00b0 when its really cold outside.\u00a0\u00a0 It will cost you more money however so I keep this feature off.\u00a0\u00a0 As long as its 5\u00b0 or above (wind dependent) stage 2 will heat my house back up to 71\u00b0 no problem and shut off.\u00a0 Below 5\u00b0 and its starts to float around in the 68\u00b0-70\u00b0 area.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The coldest it can get in my house with these settings is 67\u00b0 which is acceptable to me (maybe not for my wife…) but this only happens rarely on the once a year -10\u00b0ish days in Jan or Feb.
\nUpdate 2-15-15:\u00a0 It got down to -14\u00b0F and windy last night.\u00a0 Stage 3 was active and heating like crazy when I got up.\u00a0\u00a0 House was 70\u00b0 and climbing so it’s working good.\u00a0 This is the first time I have seen stage 3 without testing mode.
\nRemember – Heat pumps are made to run.\u00a0 Having them run for half the day is normal (mine runs all day sometimes).\u00a0\u00a0 They are at peak efficiency when running for hours.\u00a0 Mine will run at stage 1 forever when its 15\u00b0F outside and maintain 70\u00b0-71\u00b0 which is good.\u00a0\u00a0 You do not want Aux heat coming on ever unless it’s some extremely cold day.\u00a0 Let the heat pump do the heating.\u00a0 Aux heating is 100% efficient.\u00a0 Heat pump is 400% efficient.\u00a0 So this means the Aux heat costs 4 times more than the heat pump costs to run.
\nMy ground water is 52\u00b0F and will exit at 38\u00b0F or so in stage 1 heat mode.\u00a0 I will have to measure it because I do not remember exactly.\u00a0 Cooling stage 1 will discharge 70\u00b0 water or so.
\nI keep my house at 71\u00b0F in the winter which is a battle with my wife because I prefer 69\u00b0F.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 I just keep it at 71\u00b0 and peace is kept with her and my 2 daughters.\u00a0 In the summer I keep it at 74\u00b0F which is pretty cold.\u00a0 I tried 71\u00b0F once and it was like a freezer.\u00a0 Everyone was too cold and used blankets.\u00a0 I thought it was awesome but I lost that battle too.<\/p>\n

\"IMG_2733\"<\/a>
\nMy heat pump outputs about 94\u00b0F air in the plenum with 68\u00b0 air input.\u00a0 It’s in the high 80’s when it gets to the registers.\u00a0\u00a0 My old fuel oil furnace for comparison was\u00a0 at 145\u00b0F at the registers.\u00a0 This means that the heat pump will run for hours during a cycle where the furnace only was on for 15 minute cycles.\u00a0 Sometimes the heat pumps runs all day continuously on cold days.\u00a0 This was really unnerving for me at first but I have grown used to it now.\u00a0 Heat pumps are at their highest efficiency when running for long periods. \u00a0 If it cycles fast like a gas furnace then you have an over sized heat pump for sure and you will spend more money on electricity.
\nMy duct work was pretty adequate.\u00a0 I had to make a custom adapter to make it fit but I had my local hardware store fabricate that for me for $30.\u00a0\u00a0 I did some duct work calculations based on my heat pump specs and I had to add one more return air duct and feed air duct.\u00a0 I ended up adding it to the basement.\u00a0 This was a huge improvement to the air quality in the basement.\u00a0 I no longer need a dehumidifier in the summer and the basement temp in the winter is now 68\u00b0 instead of 61\u00b0.\u00a0 I spend more time down there which is great.\u00a0 There are tons of duct work calculators online and even a few YouTube videos.\u00a0 It’s not hard at all.\u00a0 I made a small manometer to measure static pressure in my duct work using a clear plastic hose and some water which worked perfect.\u00a0 Link for that HERE <\/a>
\nI have had my heat pump for 4 years now (4 winters).\u00a0 I was really nervous the 1st year because I did not know what kind of electric bill I would be getting and if the unit would heat my house well in the winter.\u00a0\u00a0 My old furnace was a fuel oil fired 100,000 BTU\/hr furnace that consumed 750 gallons of fuel every winter.\u00a0 It worked well but cost me $1,700 a year to use it back in 2011.\u00a0 Today would be $2,250+.
\n\"Cost\"<\/a>
\nAbove shows 3 years of my cost for the heat pump.\u00a0\u00a0 My house averages $95 per month.\u00a0\u00a0 The heat pump\u00a0 is combined with the water heater (also has the well pump too).\u00a0\u00a0 I have at least 5 yrs of water heater data which costs me $30 a month average all year (summer & winter).\u00a0\u00a0 Figuring out the heating and cooling portion is easy once you subtract the $30 a month hot water fee.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Notice the summer cooling is around $10 a month or less even in August.\u00a0 Cooling is pretty cheap for me.
\nHeating is different.\u00a0 My most expensive heating bill was $198 – $30 for hot water = $168 for heat.\u00a0\u00a0 2014 was the coldest year I have experienced in the past 20 yrs so that was a good test for the heat pump.\u00a0 2012 was a pretty warm winter.
\n\"kilowatt\"<\/a>
\nHere is the same chart that shows Kilowatt hour usage.\u00a0\u00a0 The house is blue and the red is the heat pump (&\u00a0 well pump) and the water heater.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 I believe the average house is 600 kWh which is really stable.\u00a0\u00a0 You can see again 2014 was really cold.
\nSo far, I have been very impressed with the heat pump.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Heating months for me are Oct – May.\u00a0 My average heating cost for those months is $700 total each year with the heat pump. \u00a0 That’s huge savings compared to the $1,700 I use to pay for the same months of heat.
\nCost of the installation:
\nI have it broken down for everything that I bought (including the electrical upgrade to 400 Amp service).\u00a0 Sales tax is included in everything except for the heat pump equipment.\u00a0 I also got a 30% Federal Tax credit which was nice.<\/p>\n

\"cost\"<\/a><\/p>\n

My cost was $5,292 in the end.\u00a0 I save $1,000 a year on fuel oil so this is a 5 year payback.\u00a0\u00a0 Not bad.\u00a0 A ground loop install would have cost me another $4,000 for the coil loop and excavating dirt.\u00a0 I have access to a backhoe so that was not a real big issue other that a few $100 in fuel.
\nI highly recommend a heat pump.\u00a0 It really does work well.
\nFYI I did have two local professionals quote a similar installation.\u00a0 Both quotes were in the $17,000+ range.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 They only took about 10 min to quote which is strange since I spent a whole weekend calculating the heat load of my house.\u00a0 Not one of those guys did that for their heat pump sizing or even asked me what I currently spend on heating.\u00a0\u00a0 Perhaps they do it so often they kind of know already?\u00a0 -not sure on that as I am no professional.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Geothermal heating is a pretty cool technology.\u00a0\u00a0 It saves a lot of money in heating and is much more efficient than fuel oil or propane.\u00a0\u00a0 […]<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":938,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-813","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-projects"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/813","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=813"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/813\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1471,"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/813\/revisions\/1471"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/938"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=813"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=813"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.freemansgarage.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=813"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}